Complete lug width guide: 18mm to 24mm for collectors

Man measuring watch lug width at table
Complete lug width guide: 18mm to 24mm for collectors
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David Ohayon

Founder & CEO, Smartlet · CentraleSupélec engineer · Concours Lépine 2025, Awarded · CES 2026

Points clés à retenir

Point Détails
Measure the internal gap Not the outer edges. Not the case diameter. The internal distance between lugs where the spring bar sits.
20mm dominates The most common lug width across contemporary watches from Rolex, Omega, Tudor, and most mid-range brands.
Round down, never up A 20.3mm measurement means a 20mm strap. Forcing a wider strap bends the spring bar and damages lug channels.
Curved lugs need curved straps Straight straps on curved lugs create visible gaps and poor alignment. Check lug geometry before ordering.
Smartlet covers 18-24mm Universal Fit Kit spans the full range of collector watches. One system, any watch in your rotation.

Watch strap ordering failure This will have happened to you all at some stage. You find a picture on line of a strap that matches the circumference of your watch, and you are convinced that the 20 x 22mm holes and band width will fit. So you order and two weeks later your new strap arrives.

How to measure correctly

You then take the shortest amount of time possible to confirm your assumptions and almost instantaneously as the strap is on its way back to the on line vendor you must be feeling somewhat foolish and slightly annoyed with yourself. So the important things to remember are: 1. Lug width is the single most important measurement for watch straps (you can guess the rest of this statement) 2. Lug width is impossible to ascertain in advance of ordering online. This guide should have been read before your disaster occurred.

Understanding lug width basics and measurement techniques

To measure your wrist accurately you will need a digital caliper or at least a ruler that is as accurate as possible. Your measurement should be taken between the lugs or the spaces between the lugs. Always measure from the inside of the lugs, never from the outside edge. A digital caliper can measure up to 0.01mm. For our purposes, you should round this measurement to the nearest millimeter. A 1mm margin of error may cause problems with the strap and possible damage to the spring bar. use a digital caliper or precise rulerPositioned at the narrowest point between lugs. Place the measuring tool inside the lugs, not on the outer edges. Digital calipers offer accuracy to 0.01mm, though rounding to the nearest millimeter works for strap selection. Avoid eyeballing measurements, as a 1mm error creates fitting problems and potential spring bar damage.

A 1mm margin of error may cause problems with the strap and possible damage to the spring bar.use a digital caliper or precise rulerPositioned at the narrowest point between lugs. Place the measuring tool inside the lugs, not on the outer edges. Digital calipers offer accuracy to 0.01mm, though rounding to the nearest millimeter works for strap selection. Avoid eyeballing measurements, as a 1mm error creates fitting problems and potential spring bar damage.

There is a common mistake made when measuring the length of a watch that is either measuring from the outer edges of the watch lugs or estimating the measurement from the case diameter of the watch. What they really need to measure is the internal gap of the watch. Some collectors will measure a watch that still has its current strap on, which will not be the measurement of the lug opening. It is very much preferred to remove the strap in order to get an accurate measurement. An alug width measurement tool designed for watches makes this process very easy. lug width measurement toolDesigned specifically for watches simplifies this process.

Lug width is the single measurement that determines everything else. Get it right once and every strap change after that takes thirty seconds.

Some collectors will measure watch

Some collectors will measure a watch that still has its current strap on, which will not be the measurement of the lug opening. It is very much preferred to remove the strap in order to get an accurate measurement. An alug width measurement tool designed for watches makes this process very easy.lug width measurement toolDesigned specifically for watches simplifies this process.

Measurement best practices:

  • Remove existing straps before measuring to access the true lug opening
  • Measure at the narrowest internal point between lugs, not outer edges
  • Use digital calipers for precision, rounding to the nearest whole millimeter
  • Verify measurements twice to catch errors before ordering straps
  • Keep a record of lug widths for each watch in your collection

Spring bars are rarely discussed in lug width guides, but they are directly connected to the measurement. A bar that is too short for the lug gap will sit loosely and wear the lug holes faster. A bar that is too long will stress the pins and compress unevenly. Quality bars from Bergeon or equivalent use hardened steel with controlled tolerances. The price difference between a good bar and a cheap one is a few euros. The consequence of a spring bar drop on a five-thousand-euro watch is not.

Standard lug widths and design variations: choosing the right fit

The 21mm lug width is the most telling measurement in contemporary horology. Rolex's 2020 Submariner transition from 20mm to 21mm moved the entire mid-market.

Standard lug widths are typically even-numberedAll standard widths for lugs are even numbers and are typically 20mm wide. Some vintage watches and dress watches can be 16-18mm wide, while modern diver and tool watches are often 22mm wide. Larger sports watches can be 24mm wide and larger. These width standards come from years of manufacturing practice and from the availability of various width straps.

While it is possible to run into the occasional 19mm or 21mm wide watch here and there, it is not common and is usually a design choice by the manufacturer to force the customer to buy an OEM strap. This really limits the use of aftermarket straps. While it is possible to use an adapter or a custom strap on an odd width watch, it is not always the most practical choice. Having a collection of watches with even, standard lug widths is generally the best way to go when trying to make your collection as functional as possible.

Key insight

Lug width is the single measurement that determines everything else. Get it right once and every strap change after that takes thirty seconds.

A smaller wrist can make it more difficult to get curved lugs to fit, but curved lugs are by far more comfortable and visually appealing than the straight lug alternatives. The con is that the strap ends have to match the shape of the lugs, which is a tough adjustment. Fortunately, there are many aftermarket straps with the correct curved strap ends. It’s important to get the shape of the curve correct when ordering a strap, as different strap styles have slightly different curvatures, and can vary by a millimeter or two.

Woman fitting strap on curved-lug watch

Many watchmakers will use integrated

Many watchmakers will use an integrated lug system similar to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak or the Patek Philippe Nautilus. This means that the watch and strap are sold as one unit. Integrated lug watches do not usually accept standard watch straps. While a few watch manufacturers will sometimes offer a rubber strap for integrated lug watches, this is not as common as with non-integrated lug watches. This is something to be aware of when buying a watch, which may not be easily interchangeable with different straps.

Common lug width categories:

  • 16-18mm: Vintage watches, dress watches, smaller case diameters
  • 20mm: Universal standard, fits most contemporary watches across categories
  • 22mm: Modern dive watches, sports watches, larger tool watches
  • 24mm+: Oversized watches, aviation watches, statement pieces

Infographic comparing watch lug widths and uses

Material, taper, and strap compatibility: aesthetics and durability

A strap that fits the lug width but fights the case geometry will always look wrong. Width is the first dimension. Taper is the one that determines whether the watch looks finished.

Material choice impacts aesthetics and durabilityThe choice of materials is an essential factor for the aesthetic and durability of an object. Each of the materials we use - leather, metal, rubber and textile - presents specific properties. With leather, metal, rubber and textile, each material presents unique characteristics. The leather strap will be perfectly adapted to the morphological needs of the wrist: it will be possible to adjust the length to fit the wrist shape and will stretch gradually to match the contours of the wrist. A leather strap is often used for classic dress watches or for vintage watches. Although more maintenance is required than with synthetic materials, leather necessitates more care to keep its beauty and requires a patina that, not all collectors approve. Alligator or calfskin offer the most attractive finishes while suede leather is more suited to casual watches.

A leather strap is often used for classic dress watches or for vintage watches. Although more maintenance is required than with synthetic materials, leather necessitates more care to keep its beauty and requires a patina that, not all collectors approve. Alligator or calfskin offer the most attractive finishes while suede leather is more suited to casual watches.

A metal watch bracelet can make for a very durable and stylish watch. This is especially true with many sports and tool watches. Stainless steel is by far the most common metal used for watch bands because it is usually compatible with the watch case. The benefits of a titanium watch band are that it is lighter while still maintaining the hardness of the metal.

Leather rubber watch bands are

Leather and rubber watch bands are generally less expensive than a metal watch band, but they will last no more than 2 to 3 years. After that the leather will start to crack and fade while the rubber band will start to crack and lose its original black color. Fortunately, most metal watch bands will fit over a 20mm or 22mm lug width. Just be aware that on smaller watches, very heavy watch bands can throw off the balance of the watch.

Rubber straps are ideal for water resistant watches, which require a very sporty look, ideal for divers watches and sports watches. New rubber materials have better resistance to UV caused by sun rays and sea salt and our straps are available in 22mm & 24mm widths to fit most sports watches. They are very easy to clean and dry in minutes. Although some watch collectors may want to opt for more elegant alternatives such as leather or metal.

Material and taper considerations

Taper is the narrowing of the strap from the lug to the buckle. Let’s say we started with a 22mm wide strap, but we wanted to taper it down to 18mm at the clasp to achieve a more streamlined less bulky watch. The taper works in conjunction with the case to achieve the correct proportion. Non-tapering straps are those that keep the full width of the strap. Some collectors feel that wide straps on their watches is the best way to show off the beauty of the watch in all its glory. When matching a strap to a watch One should be very careful of large gaps between the strap, and the case.

Material and taper considerations:

  • Leather: Best for dress and vintage watches, requires maintenance, develops character
  • Metal: Durable and premium, heavier, suits sports and tool watches
  • Rubber: Water-resistant and sporty, easy care, ideal for active use
  • Tapering: Reduces bulk, improves comfort, enhances visual flow from case to clasp
  • Thickness: Match to lug width for proportional appearance and secure fit

Special considerations for smartwatches and tool watches

Samsung Galaxy Watches use 20mm and 22mmI have a few Samsung Galaxy Watches lying around that all use 20mm and 22mm lug widths with quick release pins. So when I got the Galaxy Watch 4 in 40mm and 44mm sizes with lug widths of 20mm and 22mm respectively, I had an idea. I was surprised to learn that you can actually use third party watch straps with the Samsung Galaxy Watch. The quick release pins that hold the straps on will need to be replaced or adapted, but at least you won’t need to use a spring bar tool.

Common smartwatch lug widths:

Model Lug Width Strap System
Galaxy Watch 4 (40mm) 20 mm Quick Release pins
Galaxy Watch 4 (44mm) 22 mm Quick Release pins
Garmin Fenix 7S 20 mm QuickFit clip-on
Garmin Fenix 7 22 mm QuickFit clip-on
Garmin Fenix 7X 26mm QuickFit clip-on

Smartwatch lug width specifics

The majority of smartwatches use standard lug widths to ensure that watches can be paired with the most number of straps possible and to give the user the most amount of choices when it comes to customization. This is the polar opposite of a proprietary lug design, which would see a watch and strap being locked into a single brand.

With so many smartwatch collectors wanting to be able to switch between wearing their tech watch and their mechanical watch, it’s also important to consider that the way in, which a smartwatch is secured to the wrist can be different to that of a watch with traditional spring bars.

Have many customers are fans

We have many customers that are fans of both mechanical and smartwatches. To assist with that, we have our compatibility guides. Smartlet is a great example of this, which can be paired with a number of different watch models using our modular strap system. Before buying, we strongly advise that you check, which watches are compatible before buying so you don’t end up with a strap that you won’t be able to use with your other watches. This way you can get the best use out of your strap budget. Smartlet’s compatibility guidesDetail, which models work with modular strap systems. This eliminates guesswork when building a unified strap collection across watch types. Understanding these nuances prevents purchasing incompatible straps and maximizes the value of your strap investment.

This way you can get the best use out of your strap budget. Smartlet’s compatibility guidesDetail, which models work with modular strap systems. This eliminates guesswork when building a unified strap collection across watch types. Understanding these nuances prevents purchasing incompatible straps and maximizes the value of your strap investment.

Enhance your collection with Smartlet’s modular straps and connectors

It all begins with lug width. And lug width for Smartlet is defined between 18 and 24mm, a span that covers 99.9% of collector watches – not because it was easiest to design and develop, but because it is the right range. Provided your Seamaster, your Submariner, or your Black Bay have lug widths within this band, you have already determined, which watch to wear for the day. Smartlet’s modularity then deals with any remaining possible watch compatibility problems. Constructed in SS316L steel and titanium, the connectors on Smartlet’s buckle can receive by way of spring bar any watch with lug widths ranging from 18mm to 24mm without the watch having to be modified in any way. The Concours Lepine 2025 Award-winning patented system allowing the simultaneous wear of mechanical watches and smartwatches. Black BaySits in that range, the question of, which watch to wear today has already been answered. Smartlet’s modular systemSolves compatibility challenges across your entire collection. Engineered in SS316L steel and titanium, Smartlet connectors fit any watch from 18mm to 24mm lug width via standard spring bar. No modification required. This patented design, awarded Concours Lepine 2025, Awarded, lets you wear both mechanical and smartwatches on one wrist.

Smartlet’s modularity then deals with any remaining possible watch compatibility problems. Constructed in SS316L steel and titanium, the connectors on Smartlet’s buckle can receive by way of spring bar any watch with lug widths ranging from 18mm to 24mm without the watch having to be modified in any way.

The Concours Lepine 2025 Award-winning patented system allowing the simultaneous wear of mechanical watches and smartwatches. Black BaySits in that range, the question of, which watch to wear today has already been answered. Smartlet’s modular systemSolves compatibility challenges across your entire collection.

Engineered SS316L steel titanium Smartlet

Engineered in SS316L steel and titanium, Smartlet connectors fit any watch from 18mm to 24mm lug width via standard spring bar. No modification required. This patented design, awarded Concours Lepine 2025, Awarded, lets you wear both mechanical and smartwatches on one wrist.

https://smartlet.io

Check Smartlet’s compatibility guideCheckSmartlet’s compatibility guide To make sure you have the correct watch models Click here to TheClassic connectors set Our Classic connectors set always fits any lug width you have measured with the help of the techniques described in this guide. We ensure that all of our parts fit your watch safely and without causing any damage. Classic connectors setWorks cleanly with lug widths you’ve measured using techniques from this guide. Precision engineering ensures secure fit without compromising your watch’s integrity or aesthetics.

The complete lug width guide: 18mm to 24mm for watch collectors FAQ

How do I measure my watch’s lug width correctly?

1. Remove the old strap. 2. Measure the internal distance between the lugs at their narrowest point using the digital calipers. Round up or down to the nearest millimeter. It is best to measure twice to ensure accuracy when ordering a new strap.

What lug width sizes are most common for smartwatches?

Most smartwatches have a 20mm or 22mm band lug width so you can swap them out for aftermarket bands made for other watches. Some models from Samsung and Garmin such as the Galaxy watches and Fenix watches also have 20mm lug width bands, but with a different type of band end.

Why does lug-to-lug distance matter more than case diameter?

Lug-to-lug refers to the measurement of the distance between the lugs on either side of the watch band. This measurement is important because it impacts, not only the comfort level of the watch, but also the relationship between the watch, and the wearer’s wrist.

For example, a 42mm watch with a 52mm lug-to-lug measurement may dangle over the wrist of a small-framed individual while a 40mm watch with a 48mm lug-to-lug measurement will sit on the wrist more snugly. The lug-to-lug measurement is far more important to the wearer in relation to the fit of the watch on the wrist than the actual case diameter.

What materials work best for straps with different lug widths?

Lug width determines every strap decision in your collection. Get the measurement right once, and the rest is configuration. Smartlet covers 18mm to 24mm across all versions.

Smartlet One - wear your mechanical watch and smartwatch together