Why Gen Z buys more mechanical watches than any generation before them
Founder & CEO, Smartlet - CentraleSupelec engineer - Concours Lepine 2025, Awarded - CES 2026
In this article
Points clés à retenir
| Finding | What it means |
|---|---|
| Buyers aged 18-28 are the fastest-growing segment on Chrono24 in 2024-2025 | Gen Z is not a niche audience for the watch industry - it is the growth engine |
| Entry-level Swiss exports grew in 2024 despite a soft luxury market overall | Young buyers are choosing accessible mechanical watches as a deliberate entry point |
| The trend mirrors vinyl records and premium sneakers in its cultural logic | Physical objects with craft value carry meaning that digital goods cannot replicate |
| Gen Z collectors do not want to choose between a mechanical watch and an Apple Watch | Smartlet makes that choice unnecessary |
The generation that grew up with a supercomputer in their pocket is also the generation buying vintage Seikos, entry-level Tudors and pre-owned Omegas at record rates. This is not a paradox. It is a signal worth reading carefully, and one that tells you something precise about where object culture, identity, and technology are heading in 2026.
"The generation growing up in a world with an endless supply of digital entertainment is a generation starving for objects of substance and durability. There is something that feels honest about holding an object made with hands. There is beauty in having things last, even when it takes more work to make them."
The numbers behind the trend
According to Chrono24, the world's largest online marketplace for pre-owned watches, the fastest growing segment of buyers on the site are between 18 to 28 years of age, with growth rates exceeding those of every other age group, including the historically dominant 35-50 group that watch brands had spent decades cultivating.
The Federation de l'Industrie Horlogere Suisse data for the same period shows a parallel story: while overall Swiss watch exports faced headwinds in 2024, the sub-3,000 CHF segment showed resilience and even growth in key markets including the United States, the United Kingdom, Germany, and France. These are not the watches being bought by established collectors with existing portfolios. They are first watches, deliberate first steps into mechanical horology.
Tudor's Black Bay 58, at approximately 3,600 EUR retail, sells in quantities that would have been unimaginable for a watch at that price point twenty years ago. Tudor waitlists now include buyers in their early twenties who saved for months with the same deliberateness they once applied to limited sneaker drops.
Seiko's Prospex and Presage lines sell out within hours of restocks. The pre-owned market for entry Omegas, particularly the Seamaster 300M, has compressed in age: sellers are increasingly people in their 30s upgrading from a watch they bought in their mid-20s, and buyers are increasingly people in their early 20s buying their first.
The 18-28 age bracket is not just buying more watches. It is driving the market structure toward accessible mechanical pieces, pre-owned channels, and brand transparency, exactly the conditions that favour independent knowledge-building over traditional luxury brand advertising.
Why tangibility matters to a digital generation
Recent behavioral studies conducted between 2021 and 2024 observed what researchers have called the "tangible objects reaction" in post-COVID-19 era consumers. The underlying hypothesis is straightforward: extended periods of digital-only experience increased the perceived value of physical objects that carry craft, history, and durability. The effect was particularly pronounced in adults who spent their formative years in highly digital environments.
Gen Z, born between approximately 1997 and 2012, is the first generation that did not have a meaningful pre-smartphone adolescence. The iPhone arrived before most of them entered their teens. Social media, streaming, digital communication: these were not adoptions for Gen Z, they were defaults. The world was already digital when they arrived.
This matters for understanding what a mechanical watch means to a 22-year-old in 2026. For a 50-year-old collector, a mechanical watch can represent nostalgia, a connection to a pre-digital world they actually inhabited. For a 22-year-old, it represents something different and arguably more intentional: a deliberate choice to own something that resists the conditions of their default environment. A watch that has no software updates. That does not ping. That was built by hands assembling components measured in microns. That will outlast every phone they will ever own.
"A mechanical watch is the only object in a young person's life that operates entirely outside the attention economy. It asks nothing of you except the occasional winding."
The psychological weight of this is significant. Every other object in a Gen Z person's daily carry is optimized to capture attention, deliver notifications, and generate engagement. A Hamilton Khaki Field on the wrist simply tells the time. It does not compete for attention. In an environment of infinite digital stimulation, that restraint has become a form of luxury in itself.
The vinyl and sneaker parallel
The mechanical watch trend does not exist in isolation. It is one expression of a broader cultural pattern that has been building for a decade: the rehabilitation of analog objects with craft histories, in markets dominated by people who have never known a world without their digital alternatives.
Vinyl record sales in the United States surpassed CD sales for the first time in 2020, the year that streaming reached near-total market saturation. This was not coincidence. When every song ever recorded became instantly available at zero marginal cost, the object that delivered music became newly meaningful. The record sleeve. The needle drop. The ritual of flipping sides. People who own vinyl overwhelmingly also use streaming services. They do not use vinyl instead of Spotify. They use it alongside Spotify, for different moments and different reasons.
The premium sneaker market, which Gen Z drove to sustained growth through the late 2010s and early 2020s, operates on identical logic. Nike produces millions of running shoes optimized for biomechanical performance. Gen Z collectors queue overnight for Air Jordan 1 Retros that are inferior running shoes by every metric except cultural meaning. The physical object, its colorway, its history, its scarcity, its craftsmanship, carries value that function alone cannot generate.
Mechanical watches sit precisely at this intersection. A Seiko SKX007 tells time less accurately than a 30 EUR quartz watch from a supermarket. A Tudor Black Bay 58 does not connect to your phone, cannot monitor your heart rate, and requires manual date adjustment. None of this matters to the buyer. What matters is the movement visible through the caseback. The history of the design. The fact that it will still function in 2075. The way it sits on the wrist as an object with weight and presence, not a screen strapped to a silicone band.
Vinyl, sneakers, mechanical watches: each represents a category where the physical object's craft history generates value that digital alternatives cannot replicate. Gen Z is not rejecting digital. It is selecting analog for the moments where analog is simply better at what it does culturally.
The entry points Gen Z actually buys
Understanding the trend requires understanding what Gen Z is actually purchasing. The profile is consistent across markets.
The pre-owned Seiko market is where most stories begin. A Seiko 5 Sports in the 200-300 EUR range, or a vintage SKX on Chrono24 for 100-250 EUR, represents an accessible entry into a watch with genuine mechanical history, a community of enthusiasts, and a modification ecosystem that appeals directly to Gen Z's DIY culture. Seiko aftermarket dials, hands, and bezels generate an entire economy of customization that mirrors sneaker customization culture precisely.
From Seiko, the trajectory often moves toward entry-level Swiss pieces. Hamilton Khaki Field pieces at 500-700 EUR. Tissot PRX or Heritage pieces at 400-600 EUR. Longines Spirit or HydroConquest at 1,000-1,500 EUR. These are watches with Swiss movements, genuine horological heritage, and price points accessible to someone in their mid-20s with several years of professional income.
The aspirational tier sits at Tudor and entry Omega. The Tudor Black Bay 58 at 20mm lug width pairs directly with Smartlet. So does the Seamaster 300M at 20mm. These are the watches that appear consistently on the wrists of Gen Z collectors across Reddit, TikTok, and Instagram, not because they are the cheapest option, but because they represent a genuine convergence of affordability, design quality, and brand heritage.
Christopher Ward, Norqain, and Baltic attract a subset of Gen Z buyers specifically interested in independent watchmaking. These buyers are often the most knowledgeable segment, tracking movement suppliers, reading caliber specifications, and understanding finishing quality in ways that would have required years of education from specialist publications a generation ago. YouTube, Reddit's r/Watches, and watch-focused TikTok accounts have compressed the education timeline dramatically.
The social dimension: watches as identity
Wearing a mechanical watch on the wrist of a 24-year-old in 2026 sends a message: this person sought out a timepiece, saved for it, and went to considerable lengths to acquire it deliberately in a world where things are supposed to arrive in two days with a single click. It signals patience, knowledge of design heritage, and a preference for durability over obsolescence.
These signals operate on two channels simultaneously. The first is the watch community itself, where collectors recognize the specific model, its reference number, its historical context. Wearing a Seamaster 300M in a room of watch people communicates entirely different things depending on whether it is a current production reference or a 2541.80 from the 1990s. This internal vocabulary creates genuine social connection within the community.
The second channel is broader social signaling. A mechanical watch reads differently than an Apple Watch to most observers. It reads as a choice, as preference, as deliberateness. Gen Z understands personal branding with a sophistication that no previous generation has matched. The objects they wear are understood as deliberate expressions of values, not merely functional accessories.
This is why the dual-wear question is so prevalent in Gen Z watch communities. The debate, mechanical watch or smartwatch, is asked repeatedly on r/Watches, on Discord servers, on watch TikTok. And the answer that the community has settled on over the past three years is increasingly consistent: both. Not either or. Both, simultaneously, on the same wrist.
"The question is not whether to own a mechanical watch or a smartwatch. The question is how to wear both without looking like you tried to solve an equation on your wrist."
The false paradox of wearing both
The perceived tension between mechanical watch collecting and smartwatch use is a tension that exists primarily in the minds of older observers. For Gen Z, there is no genuine paradox. The vinyl collector also uses Spotify. The premium sneaker enthusiast also owns running shoes optimized for performance. The mechanical watch collector also wears an Apple Watch. These are not contradictions. They are different tools for different moments.
The Apple Watch does things a Tudor cannot do: it monitors heart rate continuously, surfaces notifications, tracks sleep, measures blood oxygen, and integrates with a health ecosystem that Gen Z uses actively. The Tudor does things an Apple Watch cannot do: it carries 70 years of design history, runs without charging, connects its wearer to a global community of horological knowledge, and signals values that no smartwatch face can replicate.
The practical problem is that wearing both traditionally means wearing one on each wrist, a configuration that reads as awkward to most people, disrupts the visual coherence of an outfit, and positions the two watches as competitors for attention. This is why the dual-wear conversation in Gen Z watch communities consistently returns to the same frustrated conclusion: the solution does not exist, so you have to choose.
This is precisely the problem Smartlet was designed to solve.
They own a Tudor Black Bay 58 or a Seiko Presage. They also use an Apple Watch for health tracking and notifications. They want to wear both without one wrist looking like a technology convention. They have been waiting for someone to build what Smartlet built.
What Smartlet offers the Gen Z collector
Smartlet is a patented modular strap adapter, engineered in Paris, awarded Bronze Medal at Concours Lepine International Paris 2025, selected for CES 2026, that allows a mechanical watch and a smartwatch to be worn simultaneously on the same wrist. One strap threads through the Smartlet adapter, positioning the mechanical watch in its natural position and the Apple Watch toward the inner wrist. Both watches remain independent. They simply coexist on the same wrist without conflict.
The system works with any watch whose lug width falls between 18mm and 24mm, using a standard spring bar. The Tudor Black Bay 58 at 20mm pairs directly. The Seiko Prospex SPB143 at 20mm pairs directly. The Omega Seamaster 300M at 20mm pairs directly. The Longines HydroConquest at 21mm or 22mm pairs directly. The Hamilton Khaki Field at 20mm pairs directly.
Apple Watch uses a proprietary sliding connector system rather than a standard spring bar. The adapter included with your Smartlet handles this connection. Apple Watch bands are interchangeable within each size family group.
Smartlet is available in three versions: Classic (brushed SS316L steel, 349 EUR), Shadow (black PVD SS316L, 449 EUR), and Titanium (Grade 2 titanium, 599 EUR). All three versions share identical dimensions. The difference is finish and material, a choice of aesthetic, not a choice of capability.
For the Gen Z collector, Smartlet represents a synthesis the watch community has been circling without being able to name. The Tudor Black Bay 58 stays on the wrist. The Apple Watch stays on the wrist. The collection is not interrupted by health tracking requirements. The choice that was presented as necessary is revealed as unnecessary.
For high-impact activity, keep your Apple Watch on its standard strap for that session. Smartlet is designed for daily wear, professional environments, social situations, and any context where you want both watches present without the awkwardness of one on each wrist.
The generation that will define watch collecting for the next 30 years has already decided it wants both analog and digital on its wrist. The Smartlet system makes that decision practical.
FAQ
Why is Gen Z buying mechanical watches when they already have smartphones that tell time?
The question assumes that timekeeping is the primary reason people buy mechanical watches, which is not accurate for any serious collector regardless of age. Gen Z buys mechanical watches for the same reasons they buy vinyl records or premium sneakers: the craft history, the community, the deliberateness of the object, and the values it signals. A mechanical watch is not competing with a smartphone any more than a vinyl record is competing with Spotify.
Which mechanical watches are most popular with Gen Z collectors in 2026?
The most consistent entry points are Seiko 5 Sports and vintage SKX references at the accessible end, followed by Hamilton Khaki Field, Tissot PRX and Heritage pieces, and Longines Spirit at the mid-range. The aspirational tier is dominated by Tudor Black Bay 58, Omega Seamaster 300M, and selected pre-owned references from brands like Zenith and IWC. Independent brands including Christopher Ward, Baltic, and Norqain attract the most knowledgeable segment of young collectors.
Can you actually wear a mechanical watch and an Apple Watch on the same wrist?
With Smartlet, yes. The adapter positions the mechanical watch in its standard position and the Apple Watch toward the inner wrist, both held by a single strap that threads through the Smartlet system. Both watches remain fully functional and independent. The setup works with any mechanical watch between 18mm and 24mm lug width using a standard spring bar, paired with an Apple Watch connected via the adapter included with your Smartlet.
Does the mechanical watch trend contradict Gen Z's digital-first identity?
No. The trend is a direct expression of Gen Z's digital-first identity, not a contradiction of it. People who have lived their entire conscious lives in digital environments have a clearer sense than any previous generation of what digital cannot provide. Gen Z is not rejecting digital. It is selecting analog for the contexts where analog is superior.
Is the Tudor Black Bay 58 compatible with Smartlet?
Yes. The Tudor Black Bay 58 has a 20mm lug width and uses a standard spring bar, placing it squarely within Smartlet's compatible range of 18-24mm. It pairs with all three Smartlet versions without modification.
What data supports the claim that Gen Z is driving mechanical watch sales growth?
Chrono24 reported in 2024 that buyers aged 18-28 were the fastest-growing segment on its platform year over year. Federation de l'Industrie Horlogere Suisse data for the same period shows entry-level Swiss watch export growth even as the broader luxury market faced headwinds. These trends are corroborated by brand-level data from Tudor, Seiko, and Omega showing strong demand among younger buyers for accessible mechanical references.
How much does Smartlet cost, and which version should a Gen Z collector consider?
Smartlet is available at 349 EUR Classic (brushed SS316L), 449 EUR Shadow (black PVD SS316L), and 599 EUR Titanium (Grade 2 titanium). All three share identical dimensions and capabilities. For a collector pairing with a brushed-finish Tudor or Seiko, the Classic reads most coherently. For darker finishes, the Shadow. For a collector who prioritizes weight reduction, the Titanium version at 12 grams lighter than the Classic is the deliberate choice.