Porsche Design Chronograph 1 and Apple Watch: dual wear guide

The Orfina Porsche Design Chronograph 1 was the first all-black watch ever made. Ferdinand Alexander Porsche - the man who designed the 911 - designed it in 1972 as the founding product of his studio. It is also the watch Tom Cruise wore in both Top Gun films. If you own one, you are not wearing a fashion accessory. You are wearing a design icon with a 20mm standard spring bar lug. That last detail is the reason this guide exists: the Chronograph 1 pairs directly with Smartlet, without any modification, and the Shadow version is the only logical match.

"Ferdinand Alexander Porsche designed the 911 and the Chronograph 1 on the same principle: form follows function, nothing superfluous survives. The all-black PVD case was not decoration. It was philosophy."

What the Orfina Chronograph 1 is

The famous design house Porsche Design was founded by Ferdinand Alexander Porsche in 1972. The first Chronograph 1 (reference 7176) was a 40-42mm stainless steel chronograph - the first commercially available all-black watch in history, with a case and bracelet fully coated in black PVD. The dial is matte black with three sub-registers, an internal tachymeter ring, and an orange chronograph seconds hand. A simple design without any superfluous features, but with perfect legibility.

Both the early models produced from 1972 to around 1974 using the Valjoux 7750 movement, and the later models produced from around 1974 to 1978 using the Lemania 5100 movement, are extremely sought after and relatively easy to repair. The Lemania versions are generally the preferred choice of serious collectors due to their more streamlined design and more modern movement architecture.

The Chronograph 1 is probably the most copied watch design of all time, made famous by Pete 'Maverick' Mitchell in both Top Gun films. One of the greatest vintage chronographs available at any price.

The 20mm lug width and spring bar compatibility

The Orfina Chronograph 1 uses standard 20mm spring bar lugs. Virtually every strap supplier makes 20mm straps for this style of lug. The installation is identical to a standard strap change and takes under two minutes.

20mm sits squarely within Smartlet's 18-24mm compatibility range. The Smartlet adapter attaches via the same 20mm spring bars as any strap. No proprietary tool, no special technique, no modification to the case.

This is a meaningful distinction from some other Porsche Design models. The 1919 Chronotimer collection, for instance, uses a proprietary integrated strap system that eliminates spring bars entirely - a deliberate design choice that makes third-party straps and adapters incompatible. The Orfina Chronograph 1 predates that design decision and uses the standard system. It is, in this respect, the more versatile watch.

Apple Watch connector - what you need to know

Apple Watch uses a proprietary sliding connector, not a spring bar system. Apple made two connector families: one small to fit 38mm, 40mm, 41mm, and 42mm Apple Watches, and a larger size to fit 42mm, 44mm, 45mm, 46mm, and 49mm models including all Ultra generations. Every band fits within a particular connector size but not between sizes.

The adapter included with every Smartlet converts the proprietary Apple Watch sliding connector into a standard spring bar-compatible component. It slides into the Apple Watch band slot until it clicks. No extra purchase required. Smartlet

"The Chronograph 1 was built without compromise. The Smartlet Shadow was built without compromise. The Apple Watch tracks everything your Chronograph 1 does not. Three objects, one principle."

Why the Smartlet Shadow is the right version

Smartlet comes in three versions: Classic (brushed SS316L, 349 EUR), Shadow (black PVD SS316L, 449 EUR), and Titanium (Grade 2 titanium, 599 EUR). All three share identical dimensions. The question for this pairing is which finish coheres with the Chronograph 1.

The Chronograph 1 is an entirely black watch from case to strap. Black PVD is used on the case and bracelet. The Shadow's black PVD surface matches that treatment exactly. On a black strap, the adapter sits between the two watches without announcing itself.

The Titanium version is fully compatible at 20mm. However, Grade 2 titanium has a slightly warmer and lighter colour than the deep PVD black of the Chronograph 1 case. Material coherence favours the Shadow version for this specific pairing.

Strap setup for dual wear

A single strap threads through the Smartlet adapter. First, slide the strap through the hole in the Smartlet adapter. Next, attach the Chronograph 1 to the top using the 20mm spring bars. Finally, attach the Apple Watch using the adapter included with your Smartlet. No extra band is required.

For dual wear, a flat 20mm rubber or nylon strap in black or very dark tone is the practical choice, for greater pliability enabling the Smartlet to fit comfortably across varied wrist profiles. Bund straps also work very well with this watch and add a particularly military-technical character to the pairing.

The Apple Watch sensor - the optical unit that reads heart rate - positions against the inner wrist when the Smartlet setup is worn correctly. This is the optimal placement for consistent skin contact and accurate readings throughout the day.

Positioning on the wrist

The Chronograph 1 sits on the outer face of the wrist in a forward-facing orientation. The Apple Watch is secured to the inner wrist using the Smartlet adapter. This configuration makes it possible to clearly view the Chronograph 1 while the Apple Watch is held snugly against the wrist for better sensor contact and greater notification privacy.

At 40-42mm wide the Chronograph 1 wears well on medium to large wrists. Both the Chronograph 1 and the Shadow Smartlet share the same black PVD surface treatment, which means the transition between case and adapter reads as visually minimal.

The tachymeter bezel and three-register dial remain fully visible and readable in this position. The adapter does not obstruct the crown or the chronograph pushers at 2 and 4 o'clock. All controls remain accessible during normal wear.

Style rules for this pairing

The Chronograph 1 has a specific visual language: all-black, tool-watch utility, no decoration. The Apple Watch band should not contradict that language.

Any Apple Watch band that is not black or very dark grey will show through at the connection point and clash with the all-black register of the Chronograph 1. This watch is defined by its monochromatic palette. The band should follow that lead. Black Apple Watch band only.

Apple Watch models in black titanium, space grey aluminium, or midnight aluminium are the coherent match for this pairing. Silver or gold Apple Watch finishes introduce a material discontinuity against the Chronograph 1's all-black surface treatment. Apple Watch case in black or space grey.

The Chronograph 1 runs 40-42mm in case diameter. Apple Watch Series 9 or 10 at 41mm or 45mm reads proportionally against that diameter. The Ultra at 49mm adds visual mass that can overwhelm the slim profile of the Chronograph 1 on most wrist sizes. Apple Watch size.

A note on sport use

The Chronograph 1 was water resistant to 100m at production. It remains a considered choice for daily wear: commuting, business meetings, and travel. The Smartlet dual-wear setup is designed for exactly these contexts.

For high-impact activity, keep your Apple Watch on its standard strap for that session. The Chronograph 1 can be removed and the Smartlet setup worn for all other occasions.

The Smartlet Shadow makes it possible to wear the Orfina Porsche Design Chronograph 1 and your Apple Watch simultaneously, without modifying either piece and without introducing any visual element that contradicts the all-black discipline of the original design.

よくある質問

Is the Orfina Porsche Design Chronograph 1 compatible with Smartlet?

Yes. The Orfina Chronograph 1 (reference 7176, both Valjoux 7750 and Lemania 5100 versions) uses a standard 20mm spring bar lug. Smartlet is compatible with any mechanical watch between 18mm and 24mm using standard spring bars. No modification to the watch is required.

Why is the Smartlet Shadow recommended over Classic or Titanium for this pairing?

The Orfina Chronograph 1 has a full black PVD coating on the case and bracelet - it is a monochromatic all-black watch by design principle. The Shadow's black PVD surface matches that treatment. The Classic's brushed steel and the Titanium's warmer grey tone both introduce a visible contrast that disrupts the visual coherence of the pairing.

Does Apple Watch connect to Smartlet directly?

Apple Watch uses a proprietary sliding connector, not a standard spring bar. The adapter included with your Smartlet converts that connector into a spring bar-compatible format. No third-party purchase is required. The adapter is in the Smartlet box.

Which Apple Watch size works best with the Chronograph 1?

The Chronograph 1 runs 40-42mm in case diameter. Apple Watch Series 9 or 10 at 41mm or 45mm reads proportionally against that diameter. Apple Watch Ultra at 49mm is compatible but adds visual mass that can overwhelm the slim profile of the Chronograph 1 on most wrist sizes.

Does the Smartlet setup affect the Chronograph 1's pushers or crown?

No. The Smartlet adapter attaches via the 20mm lug system and positions between the watch and the strap. It does not contact the case body, the crown at 3 o'clock, or the chronograph pushers at 2 and 4 o'clock. All controls remain accessible during normal wear.

Can I use the original PVD bracelet of the Chronograph 1 with Smartlet?

The original five-link PVD bracelet stores discreetly and can be reattached to the watch at any time. For dual wear, the flat 20mm rubber or nylon strap threads more cleanly through the Smartlet adapter than a rigid bracelet end link.